Summary of our market study

The French dermocosmetics market is valued at around €2 billion.

The global dermocosmetics market, valued at $53 billion in 2018, is expected to reach $77 billion by 2024, thanks in particular to strong Asian demand.

The dermo-cosmetics market, which encompasses beauty products designed to treat specific skin and hair conditions, showed resilient growth in 2020, while the beauty sector is facing the pandemic.

Factors such as aging populations, men's increased interest in skincare and the growing popularity of organic and ethical products are shaping the market.

Demand for bespoke, technology-enhanced products is growing as consumers embrace digitization and seek personalized skincare solutions.

The beauty segment to record growth in 2020, at a rate of 2%.

The main players, mainly French manufacturers such as L'Oréal, Pierre Fabre and Nuxe, dominate the market and are expanding their brand portfolios.

The French dermo-cosmetics sector remains a net exporter, with trade coverage fluctuating between 480% and 530%.

Changing consumer demand drives growth in the French dermo-cosmetics market

In recent years, the dermo-cosmetics market in France has seen a significant shift in consumer preferences, influencing market trends and product development. One of the most important factors is the aging of the population. Between 20% and 30% of the population is over 60.

The dermo-cosmetics market has seen its consumer base broaden, with an increasing number of men taking an interest in personal care and cosmetics.

Consumer demand for organic and ethical products has risen sharply in the sector. A considerable percentage of French women have adopted organic cosmetics, and consumers are increasingly concerned about the authenticity and naturalness of these products.

Consumption patterns for organic cosmetics seem to depend more on socio-professional category than on income levels.

The growing popularity of skincare has stimulated the market.

The main players in the dermo-cosmetics market

  • L'Oréal and its Active Cosmetics division
  • Pierre Fabre: inventor of the dermo-cosmetics concept, with renowned brands such as Avène and Ducray.
  • Johnson & Johnson: enters the dermo-cosmetics market
  • Beiersdorf: expands its portfolio with dermo-cosmetic brands such as Eucerin.
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1 Market summary

1.1 Definition and scope of study

The dermo-cosmetics market is a sub-segment of the beauty and health market. On the one hand, dermatology is a branch of medicine that focuses on skin health problems, on the other hand cosmetics include any substance used to clean, moisturize or alter a person's skin, hair, nails or teeth.

Dermo-cosmetics therefore refer to all beauty products that can be used on the skin or hair and which respond to specific customer problems (dry skin...), more or less effectively.

The concept was born in the laboratories of the Pierre Fabre company and was adopted by the major cosmetics manufacturers which are still mostly French today. These French manufacturers have managed to stay one step ahead thanks to the acquisition of many brands. L'Oréal controls, for example, Vichy and La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre owns the Avène and Laboratoires Ducray brands, among others.

There are two segments on the market : the "mass" dermocosmetics market, and the "premium" dermocosmetics market.

The dermo-cosmetics market was the only sector of the beauty market to register a growth in 2020: while other sectors plunged to -10% or more, this segment grew by 2%, an impressive result that proves the stability and health of the market.

Nevertheless, the sector faces some challenges including proving the effectiveness of the products in terms of beauty and health and adapting to the digital shift.

The main player of the market include, among others, La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre, Nuxe and L'Oreal's active cosmetics division.

 

List of charts presented in this market study

  • L'évolution du marché des dermocosmétiques
  • Évolution du marché de la dermocosmétique par rapport au marché mondial de la beauté
  • Growth of the skin care market compared to the overall beauty market
  • Part de la population âgée de plus de 60 ans
  • Part des consommateurs de produits cosmétiques biologiques selon la catégorie socioprofessionnelle
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Latest news

Beauty: Estée Lauder cautious about 2024 - 02/05/2024
  • - Acquisition of Tom Ford for $2.3 billion
  • - Double-digit growth in Clinique sales, across all geographic regions
Clarins relies on its boutiques to grow in the United States and China - 05/04/2024
  • - Purchase of the Serraval estate in 2016. - Acquisition in February of 150 hectares of land near Nîmes, including 50 hectares of arable land.
  • - Investment of 135 million euros in a new production site in Troyes.
  • - Clarins vertically integrates one third of its plant production.
  • - Global cosmetics market: 4.5% growth last year.
  • - In China (20% of Clarins sales): 11% increase in activity in the last six months of 2023.
  • - In the United States (the world's leading beauty market): 15% increase in activity last year.
  • - Online activity in China representing 47% of sales.
  • - More than fifty physical points of sale in China, representing a third of the global network of Clarins stores.
  • - Acquisition of American "clean beauty" brand Ilia for $150 million.
Luxury: the Clarins family invests in hotels - 27/02/2024
  • - Famille C Participations (FCP) has invested €130 million in Evok Collection.
  • - The "experiential luxury" market could reach 2.5 trillion euros by 2030, with annual growth of 4-8%.
  • - The French Clarins brand employs 9,000 people and claims to be Europe's number one in high-end skincare.
  • - Clarins is forecasting sales growth of 15% to 2022, with a value of 1.75 billion euros.
  • - Clarins has around fifty hotel spas worldwide.
  • - FCP's objective is to open 15 hotel establishments in five years.
  • - Evok Collection has six addresses in Paris and Venice.
Groupe Rocher's low-carbon strategy recognized by ESSEC business school - 15/02/2024
  • Groupe Rocher becomes the first Company to Mission in 2019.
  • Groupe Rocher was awarded the Essec Grand Prix for Responsible Commerce in the "Reducing environmental impact" category.
  • The group has 16,000 employees.
  • The group achieved sales of around 2.4 billion euros.
  • The group has embarked on an industrial reorganization plan involving the loss of 300 jobs in Brittany
  • . The group's Ploërmel plant, which employs 90 people, has been put up for sale.
How France's Havea is capitalizing on the dietary supplements boom - 27/12/2023
  • 59% of French people have consumed dietary supplements in the last two years, according to a survey conducted by Harris Interractive for Synadiet, the industry's trade association.
  • Estimated at 2.6 billion euros in France and 15 billion euros in Europe, the dietary supplements market has been growing at an average annual rate of 5% over the past ten years.
  • French company Havea, number one in Europe with sales of almost 300 million euros in 2023, 40% of which are exported, has been recording annual growth of 10% to 20% for the past five years.
  • Group sold in 2022 by 3i fund to BC Partner
  • The site has already doubled its production in three years with 12 million euros of investment Havea consolidates its industrial base in Vendée
  • Havea acquires Biocyte's nutricosmetics business

  • Aragan, the group's flagship brand along with Biolane, Densmore, Vitavea, Dermovitamina and Bears with benefits.
  • The Aragan brand, distributed in pharmacies, accounts for a quarter of the Group's sales, and is growing by over 25% a year.
  • This success is linked to the waves of delisting that affect around twenty drugs a year.
  • 54% of sales of supplements are made in pharmacies
  • Non-reimbursed business represents less than 15% of sales
  • Havea acquired Germany's Bears for Benefits in 2022. Thanks to its gums, the beauty supplements specialist has doubled its sales in one year to 30 million euros in 2023
Guillaume Darrousez (Yves Rocher): "Make the brand more profitable, desirable and sustainable" - 10/12/2023
  • Yves Rocher has achieved sales growth of +9.4% in 2022.
  • There are a total of 2,300 Yves Rocher stores worldwide, including : - 660 in France - 400 in Russia - 240 in Turkey
  • 90% of Yves Rocher stores are franchised or managed.
  • Groupe Rocher achieved sales of €2.4 billion in 2022, down 14% over two years.
  • The total number of sales outlets (boutiques and resale outlets) is 5,800, representing two-thirds of the Group's business.
  • Digital sales account for 10% of Group sales.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Beiersdorf
La Roche-Posay
Nuxe
Estée Lauder
Too fruit
Sephora
Lucette (Hivency)
Marionnaud France
AS Watson
La Crème Libre
NAOS Bioderma
Caudalie

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