Summary of our market study

Make-up sales in France are estimated at over 2 billion euros.

Since 2020, the make-up market has undergone upheavals due to various factors, including the COVID-19 pandemic, which considerably reduced make-up sales, with a 62% drop during the initial containment period in France. The crisis has accelerated the trend towards "no-makeup", with only 21% of women using makeup on a daily basis in 2021.

Despite this, the market has shown signs of recovery, with a 7.1% increase in supermarket sales by value in 2022. Influencers and social media continue to have an impact on beauty trends and purchasing behavior, with the #Beauty hashtag amassing over 500 million posts on Instagram by 2023.

The organic and natural cosmetics market is growing rapidly, with the French market doubling from 2015 to reach 920 million euros by 2020. E-commerce is also playing an important role, with L'Oréal's online sales accounting for 28.9% of its consolidated sales in 2021.

On a regional level, France is one of the leading cosmetics exporters, contributing 19.2 billion euros to the national economy in 2022.

The make-up market is segmented, with a wide range from low-end products to luxury items from brands such as Hermès at 62 euros. Innovative trends include make-up for men and a growing range of organic products. Regulations from bodies such as ANSM guarantee product conformity before marketing.

Booming demand for cosmetics in the French market

The French market has seen growing demand for make-up products, influenced by several structural factors such as an ageing population, increased attention to appearance and growing interest in dermocosmetics.

The main contributors to this demand are women, particularly working women, who have the financial capacity to buy make-up on a regular basis. Between 2009 and 2022, the number of working women in France rose to just under 15 million, strengthening the make-up industry's potential customer base. This demand is not static, but evolves over time. The younger generation, the millennials, start wearing make-up as early as the age of 14, indicating a trend towards earlier adoption of beauty products.

This dynamism is also attributed to the branding and strategic communication used by make-up companies. Indeed, storytelling and the use of muses as marketing strategies are essential to win over these increasingly demanding consumers in a saturated market. In addition, celebrities and influencers have had a growing impact on this market thanks to assertive communication on social media. Leading personalities such as Selena Gomez with her beauty brand Rare and Rihanna with Fenty have conquered a segment of the market, but have also promoted inclusivity and social causes through their product lines.

Seasonality also plays a key role in demand fluctuations, with almost a quarter of fragrance and cosmetics sales taking place during the festive season - a trend that lip products, such as lipsticks and glosses, fuel significantly.

Analyses of the global market reveal that, overall, the make-up industry is experiencing steady growth, with North Asia and North America leading the way in terms of sales. The French make-up market in particular, while witnessing a trend towards natural beauty, continues to make a significant contribution to the country's economy.

In recent years, quality has taken precedence over quantity, and more and more people have stopped buying make-up products on a regular basis in favor of skincare products. However, the relaxation of mask-wearing measures after the pandemic-related closures seems to have given a slight boost to make-up sales.

A staggering 42% of beauty consumers reportedly made purchases after engaging with influencer content on social networks, a testament to the considerable influence of digital personalities.

The organic make-up craze is also undeniable, with reports suggesting that half of the French population has purchased organic cosmetics, with average spend on this type of product rising significantly.

Market players

Specialized channels, including supermarkets and hypermarkets, are the most important, with supermarkets accounting for a substantial share of cosmetics sales.

  • Sephora (LVMH)
  • Nocibé
  • Marionnaud (AS Watson group)
  • Yves Rocher Group
  • L'Occitane
  • Kiko Milano
  • Estée Lauder
  • Chanel
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Summary and extracts

1 Market overview

1.1 Presentation and definition of the make-up market

The make-up market, a segment of the cosmetics market, covers all sales of products designed to beautify or disguise the face. Several product categories can be distinguished:

  • for lips: lipsticks, lip pencils, glosses, balms and exfoliants, plumpers
  • for the complexion: foundation, blush, cream, powder, concealer, highlighter
  • for eyes: mascara, eye shadow, pencils, eyeliner, false eyelashes
  • eyebrows: pencils, powders, gel, mascara
  • accessories: lip brushes, complexion brushes, eyebrow brushes, etc.

The global cosmetics market is booming, driven by North Asia and North America. The French cosmetics market is a key economic sector for the French economy. The make-up segment occupies a relatively marginal position in terms of sales generated on the cosmetics market, but is very dynamic on the export market.

While the global market remains buoyant, the French make-up market has been losing steam in recent years: the trend is towards natural products. For some years now, make-up has been losing followers and is used less regularly. To counter the stagnation in demand, companies in the sector are seeking to distinguish themselves through the valorization of plants, respect for the environment, personalization and digitalization of the offer.

1.2 A dynamic global market

In ****, the global make-up market is estimated at $**.** billion. This market is expected to grow with a CAGR of *.**% over the period ****-****.

Evolution of make-up sales World, ****-****, in billions of dollars Source: ****

The world's leading make-up companies include : Unilever, L'Oréal, Avon products, Revlon, The Esthée Lauder Companies, ...

1.3 The French make-up market

Estimated at ** billion euros in ****, the European cosmetics and personal care retail market is the third largest in the world. (***)

The largest national cosmetics and personal care retail markets in Europe are Germany (***). [***]

Cosmetics market share by country Europe, ****, in billions of euros Source: ****

Looking at the French cosmetics market as ...

1.4 Export agreements for made-in-France cosmetics

France is the world leader in the cosmetics industry, thanks to high levels of exports. In ****, nearly **% of French cosmetics production was exported, representing **.* billion euros (***), a record for this market. This makes the cosmetics market the third-largest contributor to France's foreign trade balance, behind aeronautics and wines & spirits. [***] Make-up is ...

1.5 The impact of the Coronavirus

The make-up market has fallen back in the wake of the health crisis that has engulfed France and the world. According to Iri, in the first four weeks of the containment, make-up sales were down **% in value compared to the same period last year. [***] Containment has accelerated the no-make-up trend. According ...

2 Demand analysis

2.1 Typology of demand

Demand for make-up products is driven by a number of structural factors, including an ageing population, attention to appearance, and growing interest in dermocosmetics.in France, as elsewhere in the world, women (***) account for the bulk of this demand for make-up.

Number of working women on the rise in France

According ...

2.2 Demand weakened by the covid19 crisis but set to rebound in 2022

As make-up products have a relatively long shelf life, the frequency with which they are purchased is already relatively low.

What's more, in recent years, the French are increasingly favoring quality over quantity: according to LSA Conso, one million French people stopped buying makeup between **** and ****. As a result, **.* million people ...

2.3 The importance of influencers

By ****, the #Beauty hashtag on Instagram will account for over *** million posts. Young people are the most present on social networks and therefore the most subject to influencers. In the United States, **% of Generation Z search on TikTok before buying a product, even before going through Google [***]. Influencers' opinions carry a ...

2.4 The popularity of organic food

According to a study conducted in **** by Cosmébio, half the French population buys organic cosmetics. That's **% more French than four years earlier. What's more, the average organic cosmetics shopping basket has risen from an average of ** euros in **** to over ** euros in ****.

In ****, the most popular places for French people ...

3 Market structure

3.1 The cosmetics industry

The cosmetics market is a major sector of the French economy. The following diagram illustrates the sector's value chain.

Sales generated by the manufacture, domestic distribution and export of cosmetics will amount to ** billion euros in **** in France. Exports represent ** billion euros, or **% of production. [***]

Total sales for the entire specialized ...

3.2 Distribution dominated by specialized and mass-market channels

The most important distribution channel for cosmetics is supermarkets, ahead of selective distribution and parapharmacies. By ****, supermarkets will account for **% of cosmetics sales.

Breakdown of cosmetics sales by location France, ****, in Source: ****

In the case of make-up, perfumeries are the most important channel, with sales of *** million euros in ****, ahead of ...

3.3 The weight of different product categories

Large-scale distribution

Make-up sales in supermarkets represent ***.* million euros in ****, up *.*% on ****, and a volume of **.* million units sold (***).

Sales of different categories of make-up products in supermarkets France, ****, millions of euros Source: ****

In ****, eye products generated significantly more sales in supermarkets than other product types, with a *.*% increase on ****. Facial ...

4 Offer analysis

4.1 Very uneven price levels by segment

In general, consumer prices consumer prices for make-up products have remained broadly stable in recent years between **** and ****. In ****, the consumer price index for make-up and skincare products will show its strongest rise in the last decade, reaching ***.**.

evolution of the price index for make-up products France, ****-****, base *** in **** Source: ...

4.2 Supply trends

Development of make-up for men

Makeup for men is also booming. In ****, on TikTok, the hashtag #boysinmakeup accumulated *** million views. [***] Chanel dedicates a range to "Boy". Marc Jacob, Tom Ford and Gucci Beauty also have dedicated ranges. However, men's cosmetics are not limited to luxury brands, as the e-commerce site Zalando ...

4.3 A growing organic and responsible offer

The global market for natural and organic cosmetics is growing: from *.* billion euros in **** [***]

In ****, the French organic cosmetics market represented *** million euros, double its size in ****. [***]

It should be noted that make-up products account for a very small share of organic store sales, while skincare and hygiene products dominate organic ...

5 Regulations

5.1 Pre-marketing regulations

The regulations are detailed by :

Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament(***) and health products; Regulation (***) n°****/**** of the European Parliament and Council of November **, **** on cosmetic products since July **, ****; The French Public Health Code (***).

Before a cosmetic product can be marketed, it must be able to meet certain specific ...

5.2 Post-marketing regulations

As theANSM states: " Each cosmetic product placed on the market has an associated responsible person (***). This person may be a natural person or a legal entity. This person has many obligations and responsibilities, in particular :

That of ensuring that the cosmetic product placed on the market, and with which it is ...

6 Companies

6.1 Player segmentation

  • Sephora
  • Kiko Milano France
  • Nocibé (Douglas Groupe)
  • Marionnaud France
  • L'Occitane Groupe
  • Chanel
  • Bourjois (Groupe Coty)
  • Estée Lauder
  • Coty (JAB Holdind)
  • Revlon
  • Shiseido
  • Rimmel London (Groupe Coty)
  • Cosnova
  • Groupe Rocher (Yves Rocher)
  • Mac Cosmetics (Estée Lauder)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Parfums (Groupe L'Oréal)
  • Groupe NOVI
  • Avril Beauté
  • Make up for ever (Groupe LVMH)
  • Adopt Parfums
  • Clarins Groupe
  • The Body Shop
  • Givenchy
  • Lancôme (L'Oréal)
  • Sisley
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Beiersdorf
  • Sanoflore
  • Nuxe
  • Eau Thermale d'Avène (Pierre Fabre Groupe)
  • Galeries Lafayette
  • Mademoiselle bio
  • Amorepacific
  • Avon Products
  • Kose
  • Mary Kay
  • Maybelline (L'Oreal)
  • Guerlain
  • Benefit
  • Nyx Professional make Up (L'Oreal)
  • Urban Decay (L’Oréal)
  • E.L.F
  • De Blangy (INK AND OUT)
  • La Bouche Rouge Paris
  • Pardi
  • Absolution
  • Bioeven
  • Antipodes Nature
  • April Beauty Bogart groupe
  • Ayanature
  • Baïja (Bain & Nature)
  • Beauté Privée
  • Biotyfull Box
  • BoHo Green
  • Cosmelab
  • Couleur Caramel
  • Mes Cosmétiques Français
  • Mycosmetik
  • Panier des Sens
  • Yumi Beauty
  • SRP group (Showroomprivé)
  • Silgan Dispensing France
  • Cosmogen
  • Ciaté London
  • Pink Gellac
  • Flormar

List of charts presented in this market study

  • Number of working people by gender
  • Growth in the cosmetics market
  • Geographical breakdown of cosmetics sales
  • Breakdown of the cosmetics market by product type
  • Trend in make-up sales
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Latest news

Chanel seeks new impetus with the departure of its artistic director - 06/06/2024
  • - The Chanel group employs over 36,500 people worldwide.
  • - Chanel sales 19.7 billion dollars in 2023
  • - Chanel sales rose by +15.8%.
  • - In the United States, Chanel sales rose by less than 3% to $3.9 billion.
  • - In Asia, Chanel sales rose strongly by 17.7% to $8.4 billion.
  • - Chanel's distribution network has doubled over the last five years.
Luxury: Chanel on the right track - 22/05/2024
  • - Chanel 2023 annual sales: $19.7 billion (approx. €18.2 billion), an increase of 14.6%.
  • - Workforce: 36,500 employees.
  • - Number of Chanel boutiques worldwide: over 600.
  • - Sales in Asia: $8.4 billion, up 17.7%.
  • - Sales in Europe: $4.7 billion.
  • - Sales in the United States: $3.9 billion, with growth of less than 3%.
  • - Number of Chanel stores in mainland China: 18.
Beauty: Estée Lauder cautious about 2024 - 02/05/2024
  • - Acquisition of Tom Ford for $2.3 billion
  • - Double-digit growth in Clinique sales, across all geographic regions
Clarins relies on its boutiques to grow in the United States and China - 05/04/2024
  • - Purchase of the Serraval estate in 2016. - Acquisition in February of 150 hectares of land near Nîmes, including 50 hectares of arable land.
  • - Investment of 135 million euros in a new production site in Troyes.
  • - Clarins vertically integrates one third of its plant production.
  • - Global cosmetics market: 4.5% growth last year.
  • - In China (20% of Clarins sales): 11% increase in activity in the last six months of 2023.
  • - In the United States (the world's leading beauty market): 15% increase in activity last year.
  • - Online activity in China representing 47% of sales.
  • - More than fifty physical points of sale in China, representing a third of the global network of Clarins stores.
  • - Acquisition of American "clean beauty" brand Ilia for $150 million.
Showroomprivé progresses despite textile crisis - 14/03/2024
  • - Showroomprivé sales volume: over 1 billion euros, Showroomprivé Ebitda: 21%, or 24 million euros.
  • - Decrease in orders: 5.6%, for a total of 12.9 million orders.
  • - Sport and lifestyle sales: 66% growth by 2023.
  • - Travel and leisure segment: 12% increase.
  • - Marketplace sales: 40 million euros, up 85%.
  • - International business (Spain, Portugal, Italy and Belgium): 10% growth.
  • - Sales: up 3% to 677 million euros.
Chanel investe ancora in Italia: nuova giunteria per Gensi Group - 29/02/2024

1. **Investimento Chanel nel Calzaturificio Gensi Group**: - Inaugurazione di un nuovo reparto di giunteria di 3.000 metri quadrati nel sito produttivo di Mosciano Sant'Angelo (Teramo). - Attivazione di 4 nuove linee di produzione da 70 metri ciascuna. - Attualmente, 6 linee di produzione sono in funzione, con un piano di raddoppio nei prossimi 3 anni attraverso l'inserimento di nuove risorse professionali. 2. **Iniziative Aziendali per la Sostenibilità**: - Formazione di 3 gruppi di lavoro dedicati alla sostenibilità ambientale dell'azienda un anno fa. - Riduzione dei consumi energetici e degli scarti di lavorazione. - Avanzamenti nel riciclo e riuso. - Avvio dell'istituto interno di formazione "M'Astri Nascenti" in collaborazione con Arsutoria School, con 60 persone formate fino ad oggi. 3. **Forza Lavoro e Piani di Assunzione**: - Attualmente, l'azienda ha oltre 660 collaboratori, dei quali oltre 120 sono orlatrici. - Sono previste nuove assunzioni per aumentare ulteriormente la forza lavoro. 4. **Produzione Chanel e Supply Chain Italiana**: - Le calzature Chanel sono progettate in Francia ma prodotte in Italia. - Aziende italiane controllate da Chanel implicate nella produzione: Roveda di Parabiago (acquisita nel 1999), Gensi di Giulianova (acquisita nel 2015), e Ballin Shoes (acquisita nel 2020).

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Sephora
Kiko Milano France
Nocibé (Douglas Groupe)
Marionnaud France
L'Occitane Groupe
Chanel
Bourjois (Groupe Coty)
Estée Lauder
Coty (JAB Holdind)
Revlon
Shiseido
Rimmel London (Groupe Coty)

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