Summary

Since 2020, the makeup market has seen upheavals due to various factors, including the COVID-19 pandemic, which significantly reduced makeup sales with a 62% drop during the initial containment period in France. The crisis has accelerated the trend towards "no-makeup", with only 21% of women using makeup on a daily basis in 2021. Despite this, the market has shown signs of recovery, with a 7.1% increase in supermarket sales by value in 2022, reflecting a resurgence in demand.Influencers and social media continue to have an impact on beauty trends and purchasing behavior, with the #Beauty hashtag amassing over 500 million posts on Instagram by 2023.

The organic and natural cosmetics market is growing rapidly, with the French market doubling from 2015 to reach 920 million euros by 2020. E-commerce is also playing an important role, with L'Oréal's online sales accounting for 28.9% of its consolidated sales in 2021. On a regional level, France is one of the leading cosmetics exporters, contributing 19.2 billion euros to the national economy in 2022. The make-up market is segmented, with a wide range from low-end products to luxury items from brands such as Hermès at 62 euros. Innovative trends include make-up for men and a growing range of organic products. Regulations from bodies such as ANSM guarantee product conformity before marketing.

Booming demand for cosmetics on the French market

The French market has seen growing demand for make-up products, influenced by several structural factors such as an ageing population, increased attention to appearance and growing interest in dermocosmetics. The main contributors to this demand are women, particularly working women, who have the financial capacity to buy make-up on a regular basis. Between 2009 and 2022, the number of working women in France rose to just under 15 million, strengthening the make-up industry's potential customer base. This demand is not static, but evolves over time. The younger generation, the millennials, start wearing make-up as early as the age of 14, indicating a trend towards earlier adoption of beauty products. This dynamism is also attributed to the branding and strategic communication used by make-up companies. Indeed, storytelling and the use of muses as marketing strategies are essential to win over these increasingly demanding consumers in a saturated market. In addition, celebrities and influencers have had a growing impact on this market thanks to assertive communication on social media. Leading personalities such as Selena Gomez with her beauty brand Rare and Rihanna with Fenty have not only conquered a segment of the market, but have also promoted inclusivity and social causes through their product lines. Seasonality also plays a key role in demand fluctuations, with almost a quarter of fragrance and cosmetics sales taking place during the festive season - a trend that lip products, such as lipsticks and glosses, fuel significantly.

Analyses of the global market reveal that, overall, the make-up industry is experiencing steady growth, with North Asia and North America leading the way in terms of sales. The French make-up market in particular, while witnessing a trend towards natural beauty, continues to make a significant contribution to the country's economy. In recent years, quality has taken precedence over quantity, and more and more people have stopped buying make-up products on a regular basis in favor of skincare products. However, the relaxation of mask-wearing measures after the pandemic-related closures seems to have given a slight boost to make-up sales. In the sphere of influencer marketing, the impact is substantial. A staggering 42% of beauty consumers reportedly made purchases after engaging with influencer content on social networks, a testament to the considerable influence of digital personalities. The organic make-up craze is also undeniable, with reports suggesting that half of the French population has purchased organic cosmetics, with average spend on this type of product rising significantly.

In terms of distribution, specialist channels, including supermarkets and superstores, are the most important, with supermarkets accounting for a substantial share of cosmetics sales.when we take a look at the lively and vibrant field of the cosmetics industry, some big names stand out for their remarkable presence and influence. Let's take a look at some of the key players shaping beauty standards and trends in this market.

  • Sephora (LVMH): This beauty retail giant, under the aegis of luxury conglomerate LVMH, reigns supreme with its vast range of make-up, skincare and fragrance products. Sephora's beauty emporiums exemplify innovation and customer engagement, with their interactive stores and seemingly endless range of products from established and emerging brands.
  • Nocibé: This renowned perfume and cosmetics chain has carved out a niche for itself with an impressive assortment of products covering a range of make-up, skincare and personal care categories. Nocibé's commitment to offering personalized beauty experiences makes it a popular destination for consumers.
  • Marionnaud: Part of the global AS Watson retail group, Marionnaud adds a touch of finesse to the fragrance, skincare and cosmetics shopping experience. Thanks to the quality of its customer service and its loyalty programs, Marionnaud has secured a place of choice among beauty lovers.
  • Groupe Yves Rocher: Known for its botanical approach to beauty, Groupe Rocher seduces consumers with its nature-inspired products. The brand's philosophy is centered on harnessing the power of plants, offering an ecological alternative to traditional cosmetics.
  • L'Occitane: Rooted in the picturesque region of Provence, L'Occitane en Provence brings a rustic charm to the cosmopolitan skincare scene. Its use of natural ingredients and traditional artisanal methods has won it a devoted consumer base that appreciates authentic, responsible beauty solutions.
  • Kiko Milano: This Italian cosmetics brand has made a name for itself with its affordable yet high-quality make-up products. Kiko has made a name for itself, particularly among young people, thanks to its trendy packaging and innovative product ranges.
  • Estée Lauder: An industry titan, Estée Lauder's prestige in the beauty sector is well established. With a portfolio of high-end skincare, make-up and fragrance products, Estée Lauder continues to seduce consumers with its sophisticated, luxurious brand image.
  • Chanel: The embodiment of elegance, Chanel entered the cosmetics market with its classic, timeless products. Beyond its iconic fragrances, Chanel's make-up and skincare lines exude the same level of prestige and quality.
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  • Last update : 19/04/2023
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Summary and extracts

1 Market overview

1.1 Presentation and definition of the make-up market

The make-up market, a segment of the cosmetics market, covers all sales of products designed to beautify or disguise the face. Several product categories can be distinguished:

  • for lips: lipsticks, lip pencils, glosses, balms and exfoliants, plumpers
  • for the complexion: foundation, blush, cream, powder, concealer, highlighter
  • for eyes: mascara, eye shadow, pencils, eyeliner, false eyelashes
  • eyebrows: pencils, powders, gel, mascara
  • accessories: lip brushes, complexion brushes, eyebrow brushes, etc.

The global cosmetics market is booming, driven by North Asia and North America. The French cosmetics market is a key economic sector for the French economy. The make-up segment occupies a relatively marginal position in terms of sales generated on the cosmetics market, but is very dynamic on the export market.

While the global market remains buoyant, the French make-up market has been losing steam in recent years: the trend is towards natural products. For some years now, make-up has been losing followers and is used less regularly. To counter the stagnation in demand, companies in the sector are seeking to distinguish themselves through the valorization of plants, respect for the environment, personalization and digitalization of the offer.

1.2 A dynamic global market

In ****, the global make-up market is estimated at $**.** billion. This market is expected to grow with a CAGR of *.**% over the period ****-****.

Evolution of make-up sales World, ****-****, in billions of dollars Source: ****

The world's leading make-up companies include : Unilever, L'Oréal, Avon products, Revlon, The Esthée Lauder Companies, ...

1.3 The French make-up market

Estimated at ** billion euros in ****, the European cosmetics and personal care retail market is the third largest in the world. (***)

The largest national cosmetics and personal care retail markets in Europe are Germany (***). [***]

Cosmetics market share by country Europe, ****, in billions of euros Source: ****

Looking at the French cosmetics market as ...

1.4 Export agreements for made-in-France cosmetics

France is the world leader in the cosmetics industry, thanks to high levels of exports. In ****, nearly **% of French cosmetics production was exported, representing **.* billion euros (***), a record for this market. This makes the cosmetics market the third-largest contributor to France's foreign trade balance, behind aeronautics and wines & spirits. [***] Make-up is ...

1.5 The impact of the Coronavirus

The make-up market has fallen back in the wake of the health crisis that has engulfed France and the world. According to Iri, in the first four weeks of the containment, make-up sales were down **% in value compared to the same period last year. [***] Containment has accelerated the no-make-up trend. According ...

2 Demand analysis

2.1 Typology of demand

Demand for make-up products is driven by a number of structural factors, including an ageing population, attention to appearance, and growing interest in dermocosmetics.in France, as elsewhere in the world, women (***) account for the bulk of this demand for make-up.

Number of working women on the rise in France

According ...

2.2 Demand weakened by the covid19 crisis but set to rebound in 2022

As make-up products have a relatively long shelf life, the frequency with which they are purchased is already relatively low.

What's more, in recent years, the French are increasingly favoring quality over quantity: according to LSA Conso, one million French people stopped buying makeup between **** and ****. As a result, **.* million people ...

2.3 The importance of influencers

By ****, the #Beauty hashtag on Instagram will account for over *** million posts. Young people are the most present on social networks and therefore the most subject to influencers. In the United States, **% of Generation Z search on TikTok before buying a product, even before going through Google [***]. Influencers' opinions carry a ...

2.4 The popularity of organic food

According to a study conducted in **** by Cosmébio, half the French population buys organic cosmetics. That's **% more French than four years earlier. What's more, the average organic cosmetics shopping basket has risen from an average of ** euros in **** to over ** euros in ****.

In ****, the most popular places for French people ...

3 Market structure

3.1 The cosmetics industry

The cosmetics market is a major sector of the French economy. The following diagram illustrates the sector's value chain.

Sales generated by the manufacture, domestic distribution and export of cosmetics will amount to ** billion euros in **** in France. Exports represent ** billion euros, or **% of production. [***]

Total sales for the entire specialized ...

3.2 Distribution dominated by specialized and mass-market channels

The most important distribution channel for cosmetics is supermarkets, ahead of selective distribution and parapharmacies. By ****, supermarkets will account for **% of cosmetics sales.

Breakdown of cosmetics sales by location France, ****, in Source: ****

In the case of make-up, perfumeries are the most important channel, with sales of *** million euros in ****, ahead of ...

3.3 The weight of different product categories

Large-scale distribution

Make-up sales in supermarkets represent ***.* million euros in ****, up *.*% on ****, and a volume of **.* million units sold (***).

Sales of different categories of make-up products in supermarkets France, ****, millions of euros Source: ****

In ****, eye products generated significantly more sales in supermarkets than other product types, with a *.*% increase on ****. Facial ...

4 Offer analysis

4.1 Very uneven price levels by segment

In general, consumer prices consumer prices for make-up products have remained broadly stable in recent years between **** and ****. In ****, the consumer price index for make-up and skincare products will show its strongest rise in the last decade, reaching ***.**.

evolution of the price index for make-up products France, ****-****, base *** in **** Source: ...

4.2 Supply trends

Development of make-up for men

Makeup for men is also booming. In ****, on TikTok, the hashtag #boysinmakeup accumulated *** million views. [***] Chanel dedicates a range to "Boy". Marc Jacob, Tom Ford and Gucci Beauty also have dedicated ranges. However, men's cosmetics are not limited to luxury brands, as the e-commerce site Zalando ...

4.3 A growing organic and responsible offer

The global market for natural and organic cosmetics is growing: from *.* billion euros in **** [***]

In ****, the French organic cosmetics market represented *** million euros, double its size in ****. [***]

It should be noted that make-up products account for a very small share of organic store sales, while skincare and hygiene products dominate organic ...

5 Regulations

5.1 Pre-marketing regulations

The regulations are detailed by :

Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament(***) and health products; Regulation (***) n°****/**** of the European Parliament and Council of November **, **** on cosmetic products since July **, ****; The French Public Health Code (***).

Before a cosmetic product can be marketed, it must be able to meet certain specific ...

5.2 Post-marketing regulations

As theANSM states: " Each cosmetic product placed on the market has an associated responsible person (***). This person may be a natural person or a legal entity. This person has many obligations and responsibilities, in particular :

That of ensuring that the cosmetic product placed on the market, and with which it is ...

6 Companies

6.1 Player segmentation

  • Sephora
  • Kiko Milano France
  • Nocibé (Douglas Groupe)
  • Marionnaud France
  • L'Occitane Groupe
  • Chanel
  • Bourjois (Groupe Coty)
  • Estée Lauder
  • Coty (JAB Holdind)
  • Revlon
  • Shiseido
  • Rimmel London (Groupe Coty)
  • Cosnova
  • Rocher Groupe (Yves Rocher)
  • Mac Cosmetics (Estée Lauder)
  • Yves Saint Laurent Parfums (Groupe L'Oréal)
  • Novi Groupe - Beauty Success
  • Avril Beauté
  • Make up for ever (Groupe LVMH)
  • Adopt Parfums
  • Clarins Groupe
  • The Body Shop
  • Givenchy
  • Lancôme (L'Oréal)
  • Sisley
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Beiersdorf
  • Sanoflore
  • Nuxe
  • Eau Thermale d'Avène (Pierre Fabre Groupe)
  • Galeries Lafayette
  • Mademoiselle bio
  • Amorepacific
  • Avon Products
  • Kose
  • Mary Kay
  • Maybelline (L'Oreal)
  • Guerlain
  • Benefit
  • Nyx Professional make Up (L'Oreal)
  • Urban Decay (L’Oréal)
  • E.L.F
  • De Blangy (INK AND OUT)
  • La Bouche Rouge Paris
  • Pardi
  • Absolution
  • Bioeven
  • Antipodes Nature
  • April Beauty (Bogart groupe)
  • Ayanature
  • Baïja (Bain & Nature)
  • Beauté Privée
  • Biotyfull Box
  • BoHo Green
  • Cosmelab
  • Couleur Caramel
  • Mes Cosmétiques Français
  • Mycosmetik
  • Panier des Sens
  • Yumi Beauty
  • SRP group (Showroomprivé)
  • Silgan Dispensing France
  • Cosmogen
  • Ciaté London

List of charts

  • Number of working people by gender
  • Growth in the cosmetics market
  • Geographical breakdown of cosmetics sales
  • Breakdown of the cosmetics market by product type
  • Trend in make-up sales
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Latest news

Showroomprivé progresses despite textile crisis - 14/03/2024
  • - Showroomprivé sales volume: over 1 billion euros, Showroomprivé Ebitda: 21%, or 24 million euros.
  • - Decrease in orders: 5.6%, for a total of 12.9 million orders.
  • - Sport and lifestyle sales: 66% growth by 2023.
  • - Travel and leisure segment: 12% increase.
  • - Marketplace sales: 40 million euros, up 85%.
  • - International business (Spain, Portugal, Italy and Belgium): 10% growth.
  • - Sales: up 3% to 677 million euros.
Chanel invests in Italy again: new joint for Gensi Group - 29/02/2024
  • **Chanel investment in the Gensi Group Footwear Factory**:
    • - Inauguration of a new 3,000-square-meter splicing department at the Mosciano Sant'Angelo (Teramo) production site.
    • - Activation of 4 new production lines of 70 meters each.
    • - Currently, 6 production lines are in operation, with a plan to double them in the next 3 years through the inclusion of new professional resources.
  • **Corporate Sustainability Initiatives**:
    • - Formation of 3 working groups dedicated to the company's environmental sustainability a year ago.
    • - Reduction in energy consumption and processing waste.
    • - Advances in recycling and reuse.
    • - Launch of in-house training institute "M'Astri Nascenti" in collaboration with Arsutoria School, with 60 people trained to date.
  • **Workforce and Hiring Plans**:
    • - Currently, the company has more than 660 employees, of whom more than 120 are hemlines.
    • - New hires are planned to further increase the workforce.
  • **Manufacturing Chanel and Italian Supply Chain**:
    • - Chanel shoes are designed in France but produced in Italy.
    • - Italian companies controlled by Chanel involved in production: Roveda of Parabiago (acquired in 1999), Gensi of Giulianova (acquired in 2015), and Ballin Shoes (acquired in 2020).
Luxury: the Clarins family invests in hotels - 27/02/2024
  • - Famille C Participations (FCP) has invested €130 million in Evok Collection.
  • - The "experiential luxury" market could reach 2.5 trillion euros by 2030, with annual growth of 4-8%.
  • - The French Clarins brand employs 9,000 people and claims to be Europe's number one in high-end skincare.
  • - Clarins is forecasting sales growth of 15% to 2022, with a value of 1.75 billion euros.
  • - Clarins has around fifty hotel spas worldwide.
  • - FCP's objective is to open 15 hotel establishments in five years.
  • - Evok Collection has six addresses in Paris and Venice.
Sephora to rapidly increase sales from 12 to 20 billion euros - 23/10/2023
  • Sephora is the world leader in selective perfumery.
  • LVMH has owned Sephora since 1997.
  • The Sephora store on the Champs Elysées welcomes 10,000 visitors a day.
  • The global beauty market grew by 6% last year to reach 250 billion euros.
  • Sephora has forecast 17% growth by 2022.
  • The brand has 2,700 stores.
  • By 2022, according to analysts, Sephora has almost reached 12 billion euros in sales.
Beauty: how Sephora is expanding in the United States - 07/10/2023
  • America is its first market
  • The French group opened its first store there twenty-five years ago
  • Today, it has 658 directly-operated stores on the American market, including 22 in New York
  • Sephora is present in 35 markets with 2,700 stores
  • A $430 billion industry according to McKinsey
  • The United States will consolidate its position as the world's leading beauty market, growing from $70 billion in 2022 to around $100 billion in 2027 (McKinsey).
  • The brand contributes 20% of LVMH sales and 12% of the Ebit of the number one in luxury goods.
  • sephora is America's leading selective retailer.
  • American retailer Kohl's, which has stores in 29 states, partnered with Sephora in 2020, and they share 862 "Sephora Kohl's".
Yves Rocher seeks to sell its factory in Ploërmel, Morbihan - 27/09/2023
  • Yves Rocher's Ploërmel plant was on the verge of closure due to high fixed costs.
  • The group has announced a plan to reduce the workforce at its three sites in Brittany.
  • The Yves Rocher Group is a family-owned business founded in 1959.
  • The cosmetics giant has sales of 2.4 billion and 16,300 employees in 114 countries.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Sephora
Kiko Milano France
Nocibé (Douglas Groupe)
Marionnaud France
L'Occitane Groupe
Chanel
Bourjois (Groupe Coty)
Estée Lauder
Coty (JAB Holdind)
Revlon
Shiseido
Rimmel London (Groupe Coty)

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