1.1 Definition and scope of study
Dermo-cosmetics therefore refer to all beauty products that can be used on the skin or hair and which respond to specific customer problems (dry skin...), more or less effectively.
The concept was born in the laboratories of the Pierre Fabre company and was adopted by the major cosmetics manufacturers which are still mostly French today. These French manufacturers have managed to stay one step ahead thanks to the acquisition of many brands. L'Oréal controls, for example, Vichy and La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre owns the Avène and Laboratoires Ducray brands, among others.
There are two segments on the market : the "mass" dermocosmetics market, and the "premium" dermocosmetics market.
The dermo-cosmetics market was the only sector of the beauty market to register a growth in 2020: while other sectors plunged to -10% or more, this segment grew by 2%, an impressive result that proves the stability and health of the market.
Nevertheless, the sector faces some challenges including proving the effectiveness of the products in terms of beauty and health and adapting to the digital shift.
The main player of the market include, among others, La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre, Nuxe and L'Oreal's active cosmetics division.
1.2 A growing global market, driven by Asia
The world market for dermo-cosmetics is of significant size. In ****, it was valued at ** billion USD, and it is predicted to reach a size of ** billion USD by ****, experiencing a CAGR of *.*% in the period.
The market for luxury dermo-cosmetics, "premium skincare", which is a sub-segment of the market covered, was ...
1.4 Imports and exports
France is a producer country in the field of beauty, cosmetics, and perfumery, and the dermo-cosmetics market is no exception.
The graph below shows the evolution of imports and exports of the following products:
Commodity code ****: cosmetic and toilet preparation; beauty, make-up, and skincare preparation (***)
The code, thus, includes also the ...
2.1 The impact of COVID-19
The COVID-** pandemic has had devastating effects on many markets. Due to the nature of the virus (***), sanitary measures were put in place, the most important of which were government-imposed lockdowns that kept people at home and stopped most economic activities.
The dermo-cosmetics market reacted positively to the pandemic and, impressively, ...
2.1 Panoramic of the demand
Dermocosmtics answers to the latest trends and consumers preferences in the beauty sector.
Consumers are, in fact, more and more careful to heath: with urbanization, issues like pollution, stress, noise, and sleep alter consumers' health and beauty, requiring new answers to their problems. Preventive health markets are fundamental in this context, ...
2.2 Demand is changing: it should drive the market forward in the short and long term
The ageing of the population will drive the consumption of dermo-cosmetic products upwards In ****, France had about ** million inhabitants according to the analysis of INSEE. A major characteristic of the French population is its continuous aging for several years now. In ****, the proportion of people over ** years old represented **.*% of the ...
2.3 Consumers' preferences and favorite brands
Kantar Media has conducted a number of surveys to establish a ranking of French brands in the self-care markets by number of users.
The following graph shows the major brands of suntan and sun protection products: as we can notice most of the brands offer dermo-cosmetic products, which proves the trust ...
3.1 Market organization and dynamics
The dermo-cosmetics market is organized into * main categories of players, that differ in structure, size and target. The market is very ragmented and counts countless players especially at a more regional leve.
The first actors present in the market are pharmaceutical groups, which through pharmacies reach consumers and rely on a ...
3.2 Value chain of the dermocosmetics market
The dermocosmetics market is a classic market in which manufacturers and distributors can be distinguished. Manufacturers themselves depend on the production of raw materials and their processing, which represent a large part of the cosmetics value chain.
There are some companies that have made the choice to integrate the production of ...
3.3 The production of raw materials and dermo-cosmetic products
Production of raw materials
The production of the components can be natural or organic according to the manufacturer's requirements and the harvest can be mechanical or manual.
During the phase of the drying, sorting and grinding, the player concerned must ensure that the active ingredients of the flower, or even its ...
3.4 L'Oréal, the leader of the dermocosmetics market
The Active Cosmetics Division of L'Oréal is the world leader in dermocosmetics. It is made up of * brands from both France and the USA:
La Roche Posay Cerave Vichy SkinCeuticals Decléor
The brands offer a range of skincare and haircare products and provide dermatological and esthetics skincare and natural ...
4.1 Overview of the offer
It is possible to categorize products according to their use and primary interest
Revitalize: In this category, we find anti-aging or anti-stain serums, and certain eye contours and hair creams, which allow the skin or hair to firm up. Moisturize: Moisturizing creams, for the day or night, and oils, are generally ...
4.2 Prices vary according to the brand and the purpose of the product
With regard to prices in the dermo-cosmetics market, it may be useful to distinguish products intended for mass consumption from those intended for a more affluent market, luxury dermo-cosmetic products.
However, it is important to note that prices vary greatly depending on the product category: even with an entry-level brand, anti-aging ...
4.3 Supply trend
Dermo-cosmetics and the digital revolution Against the backdrop of digitalization, manufacturers and distributors of dermo-cosmetic products must also adapt. First of all, regarding consumption habits, sales on the Internet represented *.*% of the sector's sales in **** compared to *.*% in ****, which comes down to an average annual increase of **.*%. Yet, many obstacles to ...
5.1 Unclear regulation, which nevertheless remains binding
Definition of dermo-cosmetics We can rely on a Raymond Cathel's thesis presented in ****, which includes the main lines of definition of dermo-cosmetics. They cannot be defined as drugs, but they do belong to the broader category of cosmetics defined by article L. ****-* as "any substance or preparation intended to come ...
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