Summary of our market study

The dermo-cosmetics market, which encompasses beauty products designed to treat specific skin and hair conditions, has demonstrated resilient growth in 2020, as the beauty sector confronts the pandemic. The only beauty segment to record growth in 2020, at an impressive 2%, it reflects market stability. The main players, mainly French manufacturers such as L'Oréal, Pierre Fabre and Nuxe, continued to dominate the market while expanding their brand portfolios. The market, valued at $53 billion in 2018, is expected to reach $77 billion by 2024, thanks to strong Asian demand. Factors such as aging populations, men's increased interest in skincare and the growing popularity of organic and ethical products are shaping the market's trajectory. Demand for bespoke, technology-enhanced products is growing as consumers embrace digitization and seek personalized skincare solutions.

Despite slight trade setbacks in 2020, with a decline in both imports and exports, the French dermo-cosmetics sector remains a net exporter, highlighted by a trade coverage rate fluctuating around 480% to 530%. L'Oréal's Active Cosmetics Division illustrates the sector's growth potential, steadily expanding both globally and locally in markets such as China, the United States and Brazil.

Changing consumer demand drives dermo-cosmetics market growth in France

In recent years, the dermo-cosmetics market in France has seen a significant shift in consumer preferences, influencing market trends and product development. One of the most important factors is the aging of the population, with people over 60 representing between 20% and 30% of the population. This demographic trend is set to boost consumption of dermo-cosmetic products in the near future, with estimates suggesting that by 2035, the elderly could account for over a quarter of the French population. In addition, the dermo-cosmetics market has seen its consumer base broaden, with a growing number of men taking an interest in personal care and cosmetics.

Although their average expenditure remains significantly lower than that of women, the male segment is showing a robust growth rate, indicating considerable market potential for targeted products. Consumer demand for organic and ethical products has risen sharply in the sector. A considerable percentage of French women have adopted organic cosmetics, and consumers are increasingly concerned about the authenticity and naturalness of these products. Consumption patterns for organic cosmetics seem to depend more on socio-professional category than on income levels. In addition, the growing popularity of skincare has boosted the market for dermo-cosmetics. Consumers are increasingly looking for products with dermatological support, ensuring certified and guaranteed results. This trend, combined with an ageing population and the arrival of men on the market, gives a promising picture of the dermo-cosmetics market in France, indicating a dynamic and adaptable industry that responds to changing consumer demands.

The main players in the dermo-cosmetics market: Innovators in skin health and beauty

The dermo-cosmetics market is characterized by a diverse range of key players who have established themselves as leaders in providing skincare solutions that combine beauty and dermatological science. Each player brings its own unique touch and is strategically positioned to cater for different consumer segments, from mass market to high-end luxury. Here's a look at some of the major companies shaping the dermo-cosmetics landscape.

  • L'Oréal and its Cosmétique Active division L'Oréal, a leading name in beauty, extends its expertise to dermo-cosmetics through its Cosmétique Active division, which includes five widely recognized brands such as La Roche Posay, Cerave, Vichy, SkinCeuticals and Decléor. The division focuses on dermatologist-approved skin care products from around the world, offering options for a variety of skin problems at different price points. Positioned as the world leader in the dermo-cosmetics market, L'Oréal's Active Cosmetics division has enjoyed significant global growth, particularly in markets such as China, the United States and Brazil. This growth reflects consumer confidence in dermatologist-recommended brands and the growing trend for skincare products that address a deeper level of health and well-being.
  • Pierre Fabre: pioneers of the dermo-cosmetics concept** Originating in the Pierre Fabre laboratories, the dermo-cosmetics concept has developed worldwide, with the company owning renowned brands such as Avène and Ducray. Pierre Fabre prides itself on its pioneering spirit and innovative approach to skin health, establishing a strong market presence by addressing specific skin problems with clinically proven solutions.
  • Johnson & Johnson: A trusted name beyond healthcare** Renowned for its presence in the healthcare sector, Johnson & Johnson is entering the dermo-cosmetics market. market with a focus on delivering high-quality skin care products that respect the company's heritage of care and trust. Its approach is based on the science of dermatology, ensuring that its cosmetics meet the same health standards as its medical products.
  • Beiersdorf: A blend of tradition and innovation** With a rich history and a solid foothold in the personal care market, Beiersdorf extends its portfolio with dermo-cosmetic brands renowned for their quality and innovation. Brands like Eucerin, which are part of the Beiersdorf portfolio, offer solutions for a wide range of skin problems while remaining rooted in dermatology
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Summary and extracts

1 Market summary

1.1 Definition and scope of study

The dermo-cosmetics market is a sub-segment of the beauty and health market. On the one hand, dermatology is a branch of medicine that focuses on skin health problems, on the other hand cosmetics include any substance used to clean, moisturize or alter a person's skin, hair, nails or teeth.

Dermo-cosmetics therefore refer to all beauty products that can be used on the skin or hair and which respond to specific customer problems (dry skin...), more or less effectively.

The concept was born in the laboratories of the Pierre Fabre company and was adopted by the major cosmetics manufacturers which are still mostly French today. These French manufacturers have managed to stay one step ahead thanks to the acquisition of many brands. L'Oréal controls, for example, Vichy and La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre owns the Avène and Laboratoires Ducray brands, among others.

There are two segments on the market : the "mass" dermocosmetics market, and the "premium" dermocosmetics market.

The dermo-cosmetics market was the only sector of the beauty market to register a growth in 2020: while other sectors plunged to -10% or more, this segment grew by 2%, an impressive result that proves the stability and health of the market.

Nevertheless, the sector faces some challenges including proving the effectiveness of the products in terms of beauty and health and adapting to the digital shift.

The main player of the market include, among others, La Roche-Posay, Pierre Fabre, Nuxe and L'Oreal's active cosmetics division.


List of charts presented in this market study

  • L'évolution du marché des dermocosmétiques
  • Évolution du marché de la dermocosmétique par rapport au marché mondial de la beauté
  • Growth of the skin care market compared to the overall beauty market
  • Part de la population âgée de plus de 60 ans
  • Part des consommateurs de produits cosmétiques biologiques selon la catégorie socioprofessionnelle
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Latest news

Beauty: Estée Lauder cautious about 2024 - 02/05/2024
  • - Acquisition of Tom Ford for $2.3 billion
  • - Double-digit growth in Clinique sales, across all geographic regions
Luxury: the Clarins family invests in hotels - 27/02/2024
  • - Famille C Participations (FCP) has invested €130 million in Evok Collection.
  • - The "experiential luxury" market could reach 2.5 trillion euros by 2030, with annual growth of 4-8%.
  • - The French Clarins brand employs 9,000 people and claims to be Europe's number one in high-end skincare.
  • - Clarins is forecasting sales growth of 15% to 2022, with a value of 1.75 billion euros.
  • - Clarins has around fifty hotel spas worldwide.
  • - FCP's objective is to open 15 hotel establishments in five years.
  • - Evok Collection has six addresses in Paris and Venice.
How France's Havea is capitalizing on the dietary supplements boom - 27/12/2023
  • 59% of French people have consumed dietary supplements in the last two years, according to a survey conducted by Harris Interractive for Synadiet, the industry's trade association.
  • Estimated at 2.6 billion euros in France and 15 billion euros in Europe, the dietary supplements market has been growing at an average annual rate of 5% over the past ten years.
  • French company Havea, number one in Europe with sales of almost 300 million euros in 2023, 40% of which are exported, has been recording annual growth of 10% to 20% for the past five years.
  • Group sold in 2022 by 3i fund to BC Partner
  • The site has already doubled its production in three years with 12 million euros of investment Havea consolidates its industrial base in Vendée
  • Havea acquires Biocyte's nutricosmetics business

  • Aragan, the group's flagship brand along with Biolane, Densmore, Vitavea, Dermovitamina and Bears with benefits.
  • The Aragan brand, distributed in pharmacies, accounts for a quarter of the Group's sales, and is growing by over 25% a year.
  • This success is linked to the waves of delisting that affect around twenty drugs a year.
  • 54% of sales of supplements are made in pharmacies
  • Non-reimbursed business represents less than 15% of sales
  • Havea acquired Germany's Bears for Benefits in 2022. Thanks to its gums, the beauty supplements specialist has doubled its sales in one year to 30 million euros in 2023
Nivea, the plan-plan brand turned cash machine - 03/11/2023
  • The German giant Beiersdorf, owner of Nivea, has seen its sales and share price soar since 2022.
  • inauguration of new Leipzig plant
  • Dedicated to the manufacture of shaving foams, deodorants and hair sprays, the site represents the biggest investment in the group's history, at nearly 300 million euros
  • The plant will be able to produce up to 450 million products a year.
  • after years of sluggish growth, last year the Hamburg-based giant recorded double-digit organic growth for the first time in twenty years (+10.2%).
  • in the first nine months of fiscal 2023, sales of the Nivea brand soared by 17.5%, outperforming those of L'Oréal's Consumer division (+14.5% on a comparable basis)
  • 20% of Beiersdorf's sales are generated by adhesives for industry and the general public, a traditional business that has no synergy with cosmetics.
  • With a strong presence in Europe (44% of sales), Beiersdorf is strengthening its position in India and China, where it has set up a partnership with Tmall.

Alès groupe: Clap de fin for the Bezons cosmetics plant | Bezons : End of the cosmetics plant - 03/11/2023
  • Impala's shampoo and beauty care manufacturing plant in Bezons is to close for good.
  • The plant was taken over by the Impala Group three years ago.
  • The plant has 69 employees
  • The group's brands have come under the control of Laboratoire Native and Pharma & Beauty (PB).
Sephora to rapidly increase sales from 12 to 20 billion euros - 23/10/2023
  • Sephora is the world leader in selective perfumery.
  • LVMH has owned Sephora since 1997.
  • The Sephora store on the Champs Elysées welcomes 10,000 visitors a day.
  • The global beauty market grew by 6% last year to reach 250 billion euros.
  • Sephora has forecast 17% growth by 2022.
  • The brand has 2,700 stores.
  • By 2022, according to analysts, Sephora has almost reached 12 billion euros in sales.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

La Roche-Posay
Estée Lauder
Too fruit
Lucette (Hivency)
Marionnaud France
AS Watson
La Crème Libre
NAOS Bioderma

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