Summary

Since 2020, the luxury watch market has showcased resilience and recovery amidst the challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic. In Italy, the luxury watch market achieved a valuation of 1.83 billion euros in 2021, indicating a rebound from the pandemic-induced downturn although it remained shy of the 2019 peak figures. Consumers expressed a marked preference for brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Breitling, with Rolex models like the GMT Master II "Batman" and Submariner Date ranking high in popularity. Online platforms, particularly Chrono24 with sales exceeding 800 million euros, gained prominence due to pandemic-related restrictions on physical stores, leading to double-digit growth rates in web-based sales. The secondary market for luxury watches is predicted to surge, with McKinsey and BCG forecasting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10% up to 2025, reaching a worth between $18 billion and $20 billion. Millennials' interest in luxury timepieces is rising. Swiss watch exports, a bellwether for market health, experienced a drop yet steadily increased purchases from China. Despite a structural decline in Swiss watch sales volumes partially attributed to the competition from connected watches like the Apple Watch, the luxury watch sector continues to view watches not only as timekeepers but also as high-value investments and status symbols, with sustained demand for models with long waiting lists and classic high-end watches favored by millennials over smartwatches. Counterfeiting remains a significant concern, heavily regulated in Italy with stringent penalties. Major market players, both manufacturers like Richemont and independent entities like Audemars Piguet, alongside distributors such as Chrono24, maintain a strong market presence with multi-million euro turnovers..Italian Luxury Watch Market: Resurgence and Preferences The Italian luxury watch market, mirroring global trends, has proven resilient amidst the pandemic, showcasing a swift recovery and a notable rise in online purchases. With a market valued at roughly 1.83 billion euros in 2021, this sector is bouncing back from the pandemic lows, although it has yet to surpass the record growth observed in 2019. The impressive scale of the luxury watch market, which reached around 40 billion euros globally in 2015, demonstrates the sustained appetite for these prestigious items. Consumers are showing persistent interest in luxury watches despite financial ups and downs, with Swiss-made watches being particularly prized for their craftsmanship and heritage. Notably, in Italy, the primary market has seen a significant online surge, led by platforms such as Chrono24, which commands annual sales exceeding 800 million euros. In 2021 alone, Italian consumers snapped up 5.8 million watches, a testament to the nation's fascination with timepieces. Italian luxury watch enthusiasts prioritize design, brand, and price, with a strong preference for brands like Rolex and Omega. These brands lead in popularity, but models like the "Batman" Rolex GMT Master II, the Rolex Submariner Date, and the Rolex Datejust are particularly sought after. Physical retail outlets remain influential, accounting for a significant percentage of luxury watch sales volumes, suggesting that the tactile experience of purchasing these watches still holds substantial value for Italian consumers. However, the online market is increasingly prominent, indicating a shift towards digital platforms for transactions and shopping convenience. The Italian market's recovery post-pandemic has been promising, with imports and exports rebounding. The nation remains a net importer of luxury watches, with the majority of these imports originating from Switzerland, a global leader in the segment. The Italian production of watches under Ateco code 26.52 appears to be declining, with fewer specialized watch manufacturing companies existing compared to previous years. One of the more vibrant aspects of the market is the secondary market for luxury watches, driven by collectors and reselling. This market, estimated to be worth between 15 and 20 billion euros globally, is expected to grow significantly, with online sales predicted to increase by about 45 percent. The Italian luxury watch market has seen an influx of younger buyers from the millennial generation, with an interest that balances between traditional luxury watch craftsmanship and technological innovation. This shift is reflected in searches and purchases on platforms like Chrono24. While millennials lean towards brands that resonate with authenticity and sustainability.### A Glimpse at the Titans of Time: Key Luxury Watch Market Players The landscape of luxury watches is adorned with both historic titans and modern mavens, each with unique contributions to the timeless craft of haute horology. As we peruse the array of market players involved, it becomes evident that the realm they inhabit is both diverse and dynamic. #### International Watchmaking Conglomerates Leading the pack are global giants that have left an indelible mark on the industry. We have **Richemont**, a renowned group housing some of the most illustrious names in luxury watchmaking within their portfolio. The likes of Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC Schaffhausen come under their wide umbrella of craftsmanship and elegance. They blend tradition with innovation, maintaining the gravitas of time-honored methods while exploring the avant-garde. Closely following is the **Swatch Group**, originally established to stem the quartz crisis' tide and has since evolved into a behemoth that envelopes a spectrum of brands from entry-level to high-end luxury. Their brands, which include Omega, Longines, and Tissot, cater to a broad audience and maintain strong market presence bolstered by Swiss precision and repute. **LVMH Italia S.P.A.** is another formidable name to reckon with, having under its aegis prestigious watchmakers like TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. Their foray into the Italian luxury watch segment underscores the significance of this territory in the larger scheme of the global market. #### Pillars of Independence When singling out the custodians of horological autonomy, one cannot overlook **Audemars Piguet** and **Patek Philippe**. These independent manufacturers are paragons of the watchmaking world, synonymous with peerless artistry and exclusivity. Audemars Piguet, the originator of the legendary Royal Oak, has adhered fiercely to its roots in Le Brassus, Switzerland, while pushing the envelope in design and complication. **Patek Philippe** stands as a testament to unabated heritage, crafting watches that are the very definition of family heirlooms, coveted by collectors and connoisseurs alike. Their creations are not merely timepieces but pieces of legacy, woven with meticulous care and unparalleled sophistication. No discussion on luxury watches is complete without tipping a hat to **Rolex**, the independent behemoth whose name is globally synonymous with luxury wristwear. A brand that has mastered the balance of prestige and popularity
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Summary and extracts

1 Market Overview

1.1 Definition and presentation

Among the sectors of the world economy that have withstood best the jolt inflicted by the pandemic is that of luxury watches: items that have not only continued to be sold, but have done so with better numbers than before the pandemic. When we talk about luxury watches, we mean all watches that because of their brand, their features, or the material in which they are made, are priced in a way that puts them in the luxury market. Luxury watches can be sold in the primary market in jewelry stores, in flagship stores or online, or in the secondary market. The latter has grown rapidly in recent decades, more so than the primary one, citing the prices of some watches that are not so easy to find. Luxury watches are not only used as watches but also as adult jewelry. The most valuable watches are Swiss because of the history and expertise of the craftsmen. Luxury watches possess different technologies and movements, the more complex the movement the more valuable the watch will be. Many luxury brands in recent years prefer to invest in the material of the watch, going so far as to adorn them with diamonds and precious materials, rather than paying attention to the movement. The most famous brands are: Rolex, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Hublot, Cartier, and Jaeger Le-Coutre.

In 2015, it reached a total value of 40 billion euros and has remained somewhat stable in recent years.

The luxury watch market in Italy replicated the good performance seen worldwide, not only with good resilience to the impacts of the pandemic, but also with significant increases in sales, particularly online purchases. A position that was already brilliant before the global crisis, with the entire value of the luxury watch market in Italy reaching 1 billion euros in 2019, a significant increase over the previous year's figures. In short, the industry seems to be doing well, even as sales practices begin to change. In Italy, flagship stores can be found in larger cities, but jewelry stores are also important players as retailers of new or second-hand artifacts.

Due to the inability to visit physical stores during the lockout, online shopping has exploded, with double-digit growth rates for purchases made on web-based platforms. The most popular in Italy is Chrono24, with annual sales exceeding 800 million euros.

1.2 A Robust Global Marketplace

The global luxury watch market is a large market now considered mature. In ****, it reached a total value of ** billion euros, driven particularly by consumption in Asian countries-China in particular. However, as we can see from the chart below, the market for luxury watches has shrunk slightly over the years, only ...

1.3 The Italian Market

The Italian luxury watch market reached a value of *.** billion euros in ****, as evidenced by research conducted by GfK Italia for Assorologi, the Italian Watch Manufacturers and Distributors Association. As can be seen in the chart below, which shows the evolution of the size of this market between **** and ****, the data ...

1.4 International Trade

The HS code corresponding to luxury watches is ******: wristwatches; with or without chronometer function, self-winding. Analyzing the international trade flows related to this HS code, the following trends emerge.

Imports, exports and coverage rate of luxury watches Italy, **** - ****, in millions of euros and % Source: ****

As can be seen from the ...

1.5 Impact of COVID-19

he luxury goods sector was hit hard by the coronavirus crisis in ****. In fact, for the first time since ****, the main luxury goods market declined ** percent to *** billion. [***]. The entire luxury market declined by more than * trillion euros on a global scale. The luxury watch segment fell **%. The coronavirus crisis amplified ...

2 Demand analysis

2.1 Italian Luxury Watch Lovers' Preferences

We have already mentioned that the most popular website in Italy for buying luxury watches online is Chrono**, which has strengthened its position also thanks to the closure of physical stores due to the restrictions put in place by the Italian government in **** and **** to deal with the COVID-** pandemic.

The ...

2.2 The push from collectors and reselling

The buying and selling of luxury watches has given a strong boost to the overall market thanks to platforms that facilitate trading and thus make it easy to give up a used watch to buy a new one. This market is booming as also shown by studies by McKinsey and BCG ...

2.3 Millennials and luxury watches

There are many luxury brands that are trying to connect with the younger generation. This entails a different approach to marketing to the past with great emphasis on influencer marketing, the use of celebrities as brand ambassadors or approaching sustainability issues.

More and more millennials are approaching this market, given also ...

3 Market structure

3.1 Simplified outline of market structure

Source: ****

3.2 The production of watches in Italy

Although the luxury watch market represents a niche in the larger generic watch market, it is still useful to take a look at data related toAteco code**.**: watch manufacturing .

In Italy, in ****, the last year for which ISTAT makes data available for this Ateco code, there are only ** companies specializing in ...

3.3 Retail Trade

Having analyzed the side of the market concerning the production of luxury watches, we have concluded that the number of businesses engaged in this activity is small. Instead, let us now go on to analyze the side of the market that deals with the marketing of watches, which is often side-by-side ...

3.4 Distribution Channels

Regarding distribution channels, the data highlighted in this market study, especially those regarding the recovery of retail after closures due to the pandemic crisis, testify to the strong importance that this distribution channel maintains for Italian luxury watch consumers. In fact, about **.* percent of quantity sales of these products still remain ...

4 Supply analysis

4.1 Type of the offer

The luxury watch, can be considered a neat and precise instrument but also a real aesthetic or technological jewel, with a strong symbolic and status value. In general, this type of product can take many different forms.

For example, the luxury watch can be made of precious jewels, some models are ...

4.2 Pricing

The analysis of the pricing of luxury watches is very interesting. Indeed, many experts consider these products to be safe-haven assets, capable of withstanding periods of crisis in value and thus in price. In fact, this is confirmed by the price trends of this category, which seem to always trend upward, ...

4.3 Connected watches and the disruptive effect on the market

The connected watch segment is becoming increasingly important, attracting many players. In fact, in addition to the big technology players-Apple, Samsung, Google among others-traditional players in watchmaking are offering connected watches. After a long period of ignoring the competition from these connected watches, it is now evident that the traditional watch ...

5 Regulations

5.1 Counterfeiting at the heart of luxury watch regulation

Luxury watches are particularly affected by counterfeiting and smuggling. In Italy, counterfeiting is a crime as stipulated inArticle *** of the Civil Penal Code. Specifically, a retailer who sells counterfeit items is punished with imprisonment of up to two years and a fine of **,*** euros. In addition, confiscation of the counterfeit goods ...

6 Positioning of actors

6.1 Segmentation

  • Richemont
  • Swatch Group
  • Rolex
  • Patek Philippe
  • Audemars Piguet
  • Ruzza Orologi
  • Diffusione Orologi SRL
  • Chrono24
  • LVMH ITALIA S.P.A.

List of charts

  • The global luxury watch market
  • Main exporting countries of luxury watches
  • Main markets for luxury watches
  • Size of the Italian luxury watch market
  • Features most important to Italian consumers
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Latest news

Lvmh: Belloni steps down as general manager and will be president of Lvmh Italy - 22/03/2024
  • **Toni Belloni**
    • - Period in LVMH: more than 23 years
    • - Roles: General manager and chairman of the executive committee of LVMH
    • - Next role: In charge of some strategic missions and president of LVMH Italy
  • **Stéphane Bianchi**
    • - Date of hire at LVMH: 2018
    • - New roles: He will chair the executive committee and lead the group's geographic divisions and digital and data transformation, working in close collaboration with Bernard Arnault. 3.
  • **Wei Sun Christianson**
    • - Proposed Position: Administrator on the board of directors
    • - Skills: Financial literacy, knowledge of the luxury market and China
    • - Proposed co-option date: April 18 board of directors meeting
  • **Bernard Arnault**
    • - Roles: chairman and chief executive officer of the LVMH Group
    • - Comment on Belloni: Describes him as critical to LVMH's success, citing his vision, loyalty, and participation in the group's acquisitions.
Luxury goods: Richemont slowed by declining customer morale - 13/11/2023
  • Half-year sales in Europe up 5%
  • Jewelry: 68% of sales, up 10% in the first half
  • Watchmaking: Down by 3%
  • Fashion & Accessories: 1% decline
  • Growth in the United States: 1% increase
  • Growth in Asia: up 23% at constant exchange rates
Rolex aims to consolidate its hold on the watch market - 31/08/2023
  • Rolex accounts for around 40% of sales in the luxury watch sector.
  • The company is said to have passed the one million mark in annual production.
  • Rolex has also exceeded 10 billion euros in sales.
  • The Swiss company plans to invest one billion Swiss francs in new production capacity.
  • Rolex buys Bucherer, a major retailer that previously distributed 5% of its volumes
  • The group plans to employ around 2,000 people at its new production site in Bulle, in the French-speaking part of the canton of Fribourg.
Global luxury flights: Rolex in the lead. - 25/08/2023
  • 60% increase in the number of luxury watches stolen last year
  • Rolex accounts for 44% of stolen watches, followed by Omega (7%), Breitling (6%), Tag Heuer (6%), Cartier (4%) and Patek Philippe (3%)
  • 90% of stolen watches are men's models
Swatch Group benefits from Asian recovery - 14/07/2023
  • Swatch Group generates 56% of its sales in Asia.
  • The Group's own boutiques now account for 40% of Swatch Group activity.
Ilaria Resta takes the helm at Audemars Piguet - 24/05/2023
  • Audemars Piguet produces 50,000 units a year, compared with over a million for Rolex and less than 60,000 for Patek Philippe.
  • Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2021.
  • According to Deloitte, the second-hand watch market is expected to reach 36 billion euros by 2030.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Richemont
Swatch Group
Rolex
Patek Philippe
Audemars Piguet
Ruzza Orologi
Diffusione Orologi SRL
Chrono24
LVMH ITALIA S.P.A.

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