Summary

The global silk market, while historically significant and having a rich heritage in regions like France's Rhône-Alpes and the Cévennes, has experienced a downturn with the onset of the Coronavirus crisis in 2020, particularly impacting luxury brands like Hermès with a -22.8% variation in their Silk and Textiles sector. Despite this setback, the market for silk and silk-based products remains anchored in luxury textiles, high-end household linen, and increasingly in the cosmetic, medical, and pharmaceutical sectors due to silk's biodegradable and biocompatible properties. Moreover, there is a strong demand for sustainable and responsible fashion that favors natural materials like silk, which is perceived to have a lower environmental impact.

While much of the silk manufacturing has shifted out of France, with centers of production in countries like China, India, and Brazil, French companies have been moving upmarket and investing in local manufacturing to meet these new consumer demands and improve their international competitiveness. Additionally, industry players are innovating with new technologies to create more environmentally friendly products, as seen with Chanel's investment in green chemistry for silk. Although exact post-2020 revenue figures are not provided in the text, trends indicate a shift toward sustainability and luxury positioning, with the French silk sector seeking to capitalize on its historic know-how and adapt to contemporary market demands.

Silk Demand Trends and Market Insights in France

In France, silk maintains its reputation as a fabric of luxury and exquisite quality, favored primarily by the high-end textile and fashion industry. Although silk accounts for a minor 0.2% of the global textile fiber market, it commands attention from premier luxury players, such as Hermes and Chanel, due to its outstanding properties of comfort, softness, and elegance. The demand for silk within France is notable, especially in sectors of household linens, high-end furnishings, and in emerging applications within the health and cosmetics industries. The market for silk and silk-based products in the country, despite not engaging extensively in sericulture, revolves around transformation processes like milling, weaving, and finishing to create often luxurious items, highlighted by the iconic Hermes square, which has become almost synonymous with the material.

In terms of numbers, the production value of silk fabrics (or waste) stood between 50 and 70 million euros, reflecting a significant, albeit fluctuating, economic activity over a period. France's contribution to European silk production holds a substantial stake of nearly 20%, positioning it as a key player next to giants like Italy. The prospects of the silk market seem bright, with forecasts predicting robust growth in the coming years, potentially reaching around 25 to 30 billion US dollars globally.

French luxury brands such as Chanel, with an annual turnover of around 8 to 12 billion euros, and Hermes, with figures nearing 7 billion euros, exhibit considerable demand for silk. These brands' investment in the silk supply chain, from Brazilian partnerships to localized manufacturing processes, mark a significant commitment to securing high-quality silk sources while also ensuring sustainable and innovative practices.

Beyond the luxury textile scope, the household linen segment shows promise, with brands such as Yves Delorme propelling the "made in France" image and leveraging the appeal of silk in their upscale product lines. The cosmetic industry, riding the wave of the silk's natural beneficial properties for skin and hair, presents a burgeoning demand for this versatile fiber.

The trends indicate a heightened sensitivity toward sustainable and responsible fashion, with natural materials like silk being favored over synthetic counterparts due to lower environmental impacts. The notion of local manufacturing also plays into consumer preferences, suggesting an opportunity for the development of a sustainable silk industry within France.

The market dynamics reflect a clear inclination towards products that amalgamate traditional elegance with contemporary ethical standards, creating a confluence where the demand for French silk products could continue to thrive, both domestically and in.

The Key Players in the Silk Industry: Masters of Elegance and Expertise

The silk industry boasts a mosaic of distinguished players, each contributing uniquely to the fabric of the market. These main actors, cited throughout the overview, are the epitome of luxury, tradition, and innovation, championing the fine balance between heritage and forward-thinking.

Luxury Brands

Among the titans of luxury, Chanel and Hermès stand tall. These brands are not only symbols of opulence and fashion; they also deeply invest in the silk industry. With stakes in sericulture, weaving, and finishing, they ensure the quality and artistry of their silk products remain unparalleled. Hermès, known for their iconic silk scarves, proudly curates every step of production, imparting a touch of artisanal excellence to each piece.

High-End Household Linen Brands

Brands like Fremaux-Delorme (Yves Delorme, Olivier Desforges) and Linvosges revitalize the realm of high-end household linen by weaving silk into their luxurious product lines, which adds a rich texture and comfort desired by discerning consumers worldwide.

Fabric Editors and Suppliers

  • The fabric editor SOC Pierre Frey stands as a guardian of textile heritage, bringing new life to classic designs with a modern twist.
  • They join the ranks of dedicated weavers such as Perrin Weaving and Etablissements Denis et Fils, who have honed the craft of silk weaving into an art form.
  • At the core of the industry's transformation process, mills like The Millings of Riotord and finishing specialists like Hugotag Ennoblissement play crucial roles in perfecting the silk right before it graces the showrooms and wardrobes of the elite.

Innovative Start-Ups

The industry heralds the rise of start-ups like Sericyne, which stands on the cutting edge of silk technology. Bringing innovative techniques and sustainable practices to the table, Sericyne is redefining what silk can do, from luxury fashion to utilitarian medical applications.

Sustainers of Regional Expertise

Regions like Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes are not just geography; they are the heartland of silk's history. Here, companies such as Weavers Perrins and Sfate, alongside finishers like Proverbio, shoulder the responsibility of maintaining the centuries-old savoir-faire.

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  • Number of pages : 30 pages
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  • Last update : 06/09/2021
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Summary and extracts

1 Market overview

1.1 Definition and scope of the study

The silk is a natural fibre of animal origin used for the manufacture of textile articles, which is said to have been discovered more than 2000 years before the present era. Silk comes from arthropods, including spiders and the caterpillars of some butterflies. The best silk is obtained from cocoons of the larvae of the silkworm Bombyx mori The process of rearing silkworms to obtain and produce silk is called sericulture

The main outlets for silk products are therefore the The textile industry but also that of the household linen and high-end furnishings . Applications in the health and cosmetics are also possible

However, silk only represents 0.2% of the world textile fibre market while it is in strong competition with cotton, wool or linen in the natural fibre category, but also with acrylic, polyester and polyamide in the chemical fibre category. It is nevertheless more expensive and more refined, and is therefore very much appreciated by luxury players such as Hermes and Chanel because it offers comfort, is extremely soft and adds elegance In 2019, the Hermès Group's Silk and Textile business had sales of €592 million

Silk production can be thought of in several stages: from the rearing of silkworms, to the preparation of cocoons, spinning, milling, weaving and finishing. Traditionally, silk production in France is carried out in the Rhône-Alpes-Auvergne region, with a particular focus on the Lyon area Hermes has internalized a from milling to finishing (notably for its famous silk scarves or squares), alongside other actors such as Perrins Weaving or Denis that perpetuate a historic know-how . However, sericulture has almost disappeared in France and silk yarns are mainly imported from the world's largest producers, namely China, India, Brazil.

List of charts

  • Taille du marché mondial de la soie
  • Evolution de la valeur de la production de tissus en soie ou déchets de soie
  • Chiffre d'affaires de l'activité "Soie et Textiles" du groupe Hermès
  • Change in sales index for household linen companies
  • Lequel de ces matériaux a le pire impact sur l'environnement ?
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Latest news

Chanel invests in Italy again: new joint for Gensi Group - 29/02/2024
  • **Chanel investment in the Gensi Group Footwear Factory**:
    • - Inauguration of a new 3,000-square-meter splicing department at the Mosciano Sant'Angelo (Teramo) production site.
    • - Activation of 4 new production lines of 70 meters each.
    • - Currently, 6 production lines are in operation, with a plan to double them in the next 3 years through the inclusion of new professional resources.
  • **Corporate Sustainability Initiatives**:
    • - Formation of 3 working groups dedicated to the company's environmental sustainability a year ago.
    • - Reduction in energy consumption and processing waste.
    • - Advances in recycling and reuse.
    • - Launch of in-house training institute "M'Astri Nascenti" in collaboration with Arsutoria School, with 60 people trained to date.
  • **Workforce and Hiring Plans**:
    • - Currently, the company has more than 660 employees, of whom more than 120 are hemlines.
    • - New hires are planned to further increase the workforce.
  • **Manufacturing Chanel and Italian Supply Chain**:
    • - Chanel shoes are designed in France but produced in Italy.
    • - Italian companies controlled by Chanel involved in production: Roveda of Parabiago (acquired in 1999), Gensi of Giulianova (acquired in 2015), and Ballin Shoes (acquired in 2020).
Maison de la Literie sold to Delorme household linen - 13/10/2023
  • Luxury goods and household linen group Fremaux-Delorme chosen as buyer
  • 84 of the 85 production site employees will be retained, including 66 at Saint-Forgeot and 18 at Confolens
  • La Maison de la Literie was placed in receivership on July 6
  • Sales of 20 million euros in 2020
  • The distribution division comprises 301 stores, 35 of which are directly owned
  • The Fremaux-Delorme group has 450 stores worldwide
  • The group took over Olivier Desforges in 1997, which has 121 outlets and 115 employees.
Chanel creates "La Parcelle", a new green and artistic space - 14/09/2023
  • Le 19M, the space dedicated to Chanel's métiers d'arts, was inaugurated in 2021.
  • Le 19M brings together 600 craftsmen and experts in eleven Maisons d'arts.
Ready-to-wear: Montagut continues to expand its international network - 20/06/2023
  • Year Maison Montagut was founded: 1880
  • Total sales: 80 million euros
  • Sales outside France: 65 million euros
  • Share of sales in China: over 50% of international sales
  • Share of e-commerce in China after the Covid-19 crisis: over 50%, before the Covid-19 crisis: 10%
  • Number of employees in France: 70
  • Number of directly-operated boutiques in France: 10
  • Sales of Châtelard 1802: 1.6 million euros (taken over by Maison Montagut)
  • Beau Nuage sales: less than 1 million euros (taken over by Maison Montagut)
  • Total number of outlets selling Montagut products: 370
Chanel prepared for market changes - 24/05/2022
  • The group offers collections for men and women
  • Sales of 14.6 billion euros in 2021
  • The group owns networks of Chanel stores, boutiques and distributors
  • Chanel's strategy is to harmonize prices and reaffirm that it will not sell its fashion and watch and jewelry creations online
  • The group has invested $758 million in transforming its distribution network
  • According to analysts, the label created by Coco Chanel is the only one in the sector to rival the power of LVMH Louis Vuitton and its revenues of some 17 billion euros

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Chanel
Sericyne
Les Tissages Perrin
Métaphores
SOI Paris
Denis et Fils Soie
Hugotag Ennoblissement
Fremaux-Delorme (Yves Delorme, Olivier Desforges)
Linvosges
Les Moulinages de Riotord
Pierre Frey
Christian lacroix

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